Mexico archive

Mom escapes: ¡México, aquí vengo!

Part one: The plan

Regular readers may have seen a theme running through recent posts: “GET ME OUT OF HERE!” So 2 days ago, when news of yet ANOTHER Snowmaggedon (see above for my actual front yard as of this moment, with another 7 inches to come) hit and I knew I was going to be stuck in the house with the kids (and Deal Dad, who I love, but let’s face it…it gets tight) for another storm, I broke. Cracked. It was NOT pretty. (Fortunately for all involved, I was alone at the time).

I don’t know how-I guess after 21 years together he could just feel something dark in the force from work 20 miles away- but when he came home he told me: “Get Out. Just don’t spend much real money.”

Something I know after 21 years together: don’t look a gift horse in the mouth! I immediately starting looking for award or cheap tickets South. Anywhere South.

In the minus column, this is peak “getta dodge season”…and I had three days notice. Even Southwest Airlines tickets to Orlando were going for $600. One way. Gonna have to be miles or nada.

In the plus column, I have a TON of USAirways miles and Gold Status, which means no booking fees. Also in the plus: the sweet spot between USAirways leaving Star Alliance and merging with American Airlines means I had lots of options to use them…IF I could only find a ticket.

Also narrowing the ticket ranges: I knew after last winter’s debacle I had better book a non-stop flight both ways to wherever I was going. I also knew I shouldn’t leave before Saturday to give this snow a chance to be cleared enough for my flight to get out.

After spending most of Tuesday on USAirways.com, AA.com, BA.com (Avios), and United.com, I FINALLY found 2 non-stop flights on United for 35,000 miles round trip that fit the bill to (drum roll…) Mexico City.

Mexico City? Yes, Mexico City! Remember, I need warmth, not specifically beach, and the weather forecast is 78 and sunny, with a 0 percent chance of rain. Perfect. I’ve never been there (my time in Mexico was in Monterrey and parts north) and there’s more than enough to keep me exploring for a quick weekend jaunt.

I had a surprising number of points options for hotels. I ended up choosing the Holiday Inn MEXICO ZOCALO as it was located closest to the actual historical district and had a highly recommended patio restaurant. I decided to redeem one night for 10,000 points, and to pay for one night for $120 (including tax) as the night I pay for will earn me over 20,000 points thanks to the “Big Win” promotion and all of the various codes posted on Flyertalk. The great thing about IHG is that their computer system will pretty much stack every promotion code out there so with occasional paid stays you can leverage free stays over and over.

So, assuming my flight gets out, Saturday evening I’ll be dining alfresco and Sunday I’ll be climbing up to el Castillo and shopping el Mercado.  And if not, well, I’m sure there will be a story…

Feb. 13, 2014

Part two: Mexico City Salvation (Or: How 21 Hours Saved My Sanity)

48 hours, takeoff to landing. Subtract 4 hours at the airport, 10 hours in the air, 13 hours of sleep, and I had 21 waking hours in Mexico City to (as Deal Dad put it) “lose the funk” of an endless winter.

How did I do? I’ll recap more later, but to sum up, Mission accomplished.

Feb. 18, 2014

Part three: Celito Lindo

I’ve mentioned before that I both am and have a 3rd Culture Kid and had a weird moment of Deja Vu this weekend I wanted to share. I was listening to NPR and the song Cielito Lindo came on as background to a story. I know the song is a bit of a cliche with the “Ay Ay Ay Ay” refrain, but the song brought back strong longing for a place that, frankly, isn’t my own.

I moved to Nogales, Arizona, when I was 3 and lived there for 10 years before moving to South Florida (which has a 3rd culture of it’s own). In the 1970s before immigration was such a hot button issue, we grocery shopped in Mexico, went out to dinner in Mexico, and in school I learned Mexican History and music the same as you might have kids learning your state’s history or playing “America the Beautiful” now.

“Cielito Lindo” is strongly woven into my blood, the same way I crave refried beans on a bad day instead of chocolate, the same way I knew the story of Mexico’s founding the moment I saw the coat of arms. They all feel like “home”.

I don’t have a drop of Latina blood in me, hadn’t even been to Mexico (besides the beaches) in 20 years until last month. Visiting Mexico was tonic to me, for more than the sun, but I didn’t realize why until I got back. I was going home.

Do you have strong ties to a place that you aren’t “from”? Please share in the comments.

Feb. 21, 2014

Part 4: Monterrey Mexico: Extreme SlugBug, World Peace, and Chickens

It’s so funny how the mind works. My first2board companion Jamison just tweeted out a photo from Monterrey Mexico that brought back memories. Memories of a restaurant in a mechanic’s garage, memories of Volkswagen beetles being both taxis and police cars, making SlugBug an endurance competition, but most of all memories of the Chicken of Peace.

Let me explain. My Dad had a career in Federal Law Enforcement that began on the Mexican Border (or La Frontera), progressed to Mexico itself, then went overseas. In the late 80s/Early 90s the family lived in Monterrey. Now I personally wouldn’t visit Monterrey on a dare (have fun, Jamison!), but at the time besides burglary and the occasional police bribe families were usually not bothered.

Most days there were a ragtag group of the usual people you see at protests demonstrating outside the United States Consulate protesting…well, something having to do with “Imperialism”, I’m sure. On this particular Saturday, the group wanted to make a statement by releasing a dove but apparently didn’t have one handy…

and so was born the “pollo de paz”.

Original publish date: May 7, 2013

Family Travel FAQ: Mexico City Layover With Kids

Steve asks (edited for clarity): I have a 30 layover in Mexico City with kids 12 and 14. Would you recommend us going straight to Teotihuacan with a rental car or should we spend all the time in Mexico City to see those sites?

Let me start with the no-brainer: I would not under any circumstance recommend renting a car in a developing country on a layover.  Layovers by definition mean you must be on a plane by X time. ANY accident, even one caused by a chicken, could result in a lengthy investigation.  On a two week trip you have a bit more flexibility if the unfortunate happens.

 This post is NOT intended to be a comprehensive guide to Mexico City.  Instead it’s a quick snapshot of the advice I’d give a friend.  It’s also not particularly “budget” as you’re valuing time over money.

Mexico City Layover With Kids Tips

• • If you have 8 hours or less arriving before 3PM or so, hire a car to take you to Teotihuacan as the hours are 10AM-6PM.  I had a good (paid with my own $$) experience with Royal Cars. You could easily do a tour of the pyramids round trip and have a meal before your flight.

If you have 8 hours or less arriving after 3PM, head towards the Zocalo.  Keep mindful of rush hour, which is especially horrendous on viernes quincena, or the Friday after the 1st and 15th. Enjoy the scenes around the Zocalo, the Cathedral and a stroll down Avenida 5 de Mayo. Be sure to admire the lobby at the Gran Nacional Hotel as the entire ceiling is made of Tiffany glass.If you have all day or would rather head into Mexico City in the morning, the Museum of Archaeology is world class and opens at 9AM.  You can tackle the Museum in two hours but easily can also spend take half a day.  Don’t miss the outside gardens as they help kids put history into context.  Outside of the museum indigenous dancers perform 60 feet up in the air.  It’s not to be missed.  If have have time before 9AM, take a stroll around the Zocalo then head over.

• Feeling more urban explorer than history buff?  Head down to Coyocan to explore the market. Off the main square in Coyocan there’s a tourist market but about three blocks north you’ll find the real action- produce, meat, and life going about its chaotic rhythm.  Tostadas Coyocan are famous for a reason, but we actually preferred the bebidas– drinks in more flavors than you can count.  Frida Kahlo’s Casa Azul is also in Coyocan, but the lines are often long so I wouldn’t visit Coyocan only to see it.
• Hungry? Try Sanborn’s, the “House of Tiles”, which is a triple threat: gorgeously historic premises,  good food, and reasonable prices. An alternative plan for dinner is 103 year strong Cafe Tacuba. The decor is what I’d call “Scooby Doo and the Haunted Bodega” and Mariachi stroll about weekends.
• Finally, If your Layover involves a Monday all of the advice above needs to be modified. The Museum of Archaeology, Chapultepec Park (including the Castillo) and Museo Templo Mayor (among others) are closed on Monday.

Urban Adventures Mexico City: AKA My Little Victory at the Pyramid of the Sun

I gave Deal Girl the Sun but she gave me so much more. This past weekend we were invited on a tour with Urban Adventures to visit Teotihuacan on their “Beyond Mexico City” tour. Instead of a standard review, I want to tell you a story.

Sometimes what you remember about a trip is not what you did but what you didn’t do. That’s the case with my trip to Mexico City 18 months ago. On that trip I also visited Teotihuacan, on a larger group tour. That tour group of over 20 climbed the Pyramid of the Moon, and I thought I was going to be the ancients’ latest human sacrifice when I finally lumbered onto the top. Adding to my general lack of physical fitness was an ankle break that I’m still aware of and a mortal fear of uneven steps. The group was given 30 minutes “free time” after and it took me that long to get down- mostly on my butt. It wasn’t pretty. Climb the Pyramid of the Sun, twice as high? No #@$@# way! So although the day was beautiful, I had a real sense of my limitations up on that small hill.

Fast forward to Sunday. The day was cloudy, but in my mind will always be 100 times more beautiful. Our Urban Adventures group was only six, with two guides and a driver. We took a public bus to from our downtown meeting point (HUGE plus: no annoying hours of hotel pickups!) to the main terminal where we met a van to the Pyramids. The entire time Deal Girl talked about nothing but climbing the Pyramid of the Sun. I just kept my mouth shut, trying to figure out how I was going to manage her expectations once we got there.

Our Intrepid (see what I did there, Urban Adventures is owned by Intrepid) little group arrived at Teotihuacan and after touring the grounds attacked the Pyramid of the Moon first.  OK. I knew I COULD do this one, even if I also knew I barely survived it last time.  But a strange thing happened.  I was still the last of the group of six to make it up, and still needed to take a break 1/2 way, but I made it without feeling like I was going to die.  Progress!

(I should digress here and mention that I’ve lost a few pounds in the 18 months between trips.  Not enough to be unrecognizable, clearly, but enough that the pants from the photo last time have since been given to goodwill. And enough, I guess, that the strain of getting my butt up that hill wasn’t quite as much.)

So from the top of the Pyramid of the Moon I made a decision- I’m not going to let Deal Girl see me afraid to try. At 8 Deal Girl is absolutely fearless- has been her entire life- and I’m not going to be the one to let her down. (Tearing up as I’m typing…)

So we climbed the Pyramid of the Sun. All of it. A little victory in the grand scheme of life, but I’ll take it.

Props to our tour guides Rodrigo and Pilar who took turns holding my bag, which I’m sure helped. Double props to Rodrigo for taking some amazing candid photos after the posed ones I asked for were done. What also helped was having such a small group so there was no pressure of me holding back a bus full of people while I made my way sloooowly up and even more sloooowly back down.

Only after we were on top did I mention to Deal Girl that I had never climbed the Sun Pyramid. Only after we were done did I tell her that I was afraid, but so glad I did it anyway. She understood that the rewards of trying something new- even if scary- are worth the risk.

I’d like to think that’s why she dove into the unfamiliar looking horchata drink and tortilla soup with our home-made dinner later with gusto- but that just may be her personality. I will say that most eight year olds I’ve seen don’t vary much outside the pizza/nugget box and I’d like to think our Urban Adventures have something to do with her sense of wonder at the world around her.